This originally posted at
A Jennuine Life, but I thought it would be fun to share if you haven't already read it!
I am happy to be visiting a Jennuine
Life today to share with you one of the Lost Arts of Sewing. My post
is a little bit different, in that I am not sharing a technique, but
some history about how ladies sewed in the past. I am also offering a
FREE vintage sunsuit pattern and machine embroidery design!
I have loved sewing of all types for
many years. I started smocking when I was 10 and haven't stopped. I
have made many outfits for my 5 children and I cherish the photos of
them in the clothing I made.
Recently, I joined a group that shares
their love of PDF sewing patterns. It has given me a feel for what
many young Moms and beginner sewists like. They like the PDF patterns
because they are instant download, come in many sizes, have excellent
directions with many photos, and there is a wide range of styles
available at a click.
But this world of choice and
convenience is a recent development! When our mamas, grandmas, and
great-grandmas wanted to sew for their families, things were very
different. Madame Demorest was the first to offer patterns in one
size in 1860. In 1863, Ebenezer Butterick was the first person to
start selling graded (available in different sizes) sewing patterns.
In 1870 James McCall started his company and 2 of the biggest pattern
companies were born. At this time, the patterns were pre-cut pieces
of tissue paper, with no printing and very scant directions. By the
1890s, these unprinted patterns were widely available and many companies had sprouted up: Pictorial Review, May Manton's, and Ideal (for Montgomery Ward) for a few.
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| Early Ideal Layette Pattern |
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| Here are your only directions! |
In the early 1900s, Butterick started
including a separate instruction sheet, which was enlarged and
improved in the early 20s as the “Deltor.”
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| 1920s Butterick pattern |
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| Example of Butterick Deltor |
In 1919, McCall also improved their
patterns by printing directions directly on the pieces, to resemble
blueprints.
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| Example of a McCall "Blueprint" pattern piece- circa 1919 |
McCall was also the first to use a
full-color illustration on the covers, starting in 1932. These early
color patterns are quite collectable and often sell for $30-60.
In 1927, Simplicity Patterns sold their
first patterns, which were known for being easy-to-sew, every-day
clothing.
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| Early Simplicity Pattern, c 1929 |
In the early 30s, 2 more brands joined
the mix. Superior Patterns, which were exclusive to Sears and
Advance, which was JC Penney's brand. Now women could shop for
patterns, fabric, and notions at their favorite department store.
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| This Advance is c. 1950 and I made it! |
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| I really do sew these patterns! |
Hollywood, DuBarry, and New York
patterns also started around this time. These were very stylish:
Hollywood patterns featured a movie-star on each pattern.
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| Charlene Wyatt of Paramount was featured on this Hollywood Pattern from the 40s. |
Starting in the 1930s, many mail-order
pattern companies started: Anne Adams, Marian Martin, Sew-Rite,
Spadea, Alice Brooks, Patt-O-Rama, and Laura Wheeler. These companies
advertised in ladies' magazines and offered crochet and knitting
patterns as well as sewing.
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| Anne Adams Ladies' Dress |
McCall was the first to switch to all
printed patterns. They were a leader in the industry and are among my
favorite vintage patterns. Their name changed from McCall to McCall's
in 1951. They were followed by the other brands. Here's a fun look at
a Simplicity pattern I have in both versions: printed and unprinted.
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| Example of the same bootie pattern piece in printed and unprinted. |
Another interesting offering of McCall
patterns were their patterns that came with transfers. They offered
many of these from the 30s to the 50s and the embroidery designs are
lovely. They were a great idea, because the embroidery designs were
made to fit the exact item.
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| Beautiful early 30s child's coat with transfer |
They also offered transfers on their
own, which were called “Kaumagraph” transfer patterns.
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| Kaumagraph Transfer Pattern, Cute Animals |
Once printed patterns with good
instructions were the norm, not much changed until recently. Sewing
Mamas today can enjoy all the benefits of PDF patterns: instant
download, shop at home, photo tutorials, wide range of sizes and
styles, and even being able to speak to the designer by email or on
facebook if you get stuck!
To celebrate my first guest post, I
have a wonderful FREE pattern to offer you today. It
has the vintage style of the 1950s combined with all the conveniences
of a PDF pattern. I present:
Timmy
& Mary's Sunsuit
This is a sunsuit with shoulder-ties
and open romper legs with a snap crotch. You can make it lined or 1-layer with bias binding. The fit is loose and comfy
for summer! It comes in sizes 6 months to 3 and is perfect for
novelty prints or embroidery- by hand or machine. In fact, I am
giving you this adorable puppy face machine embroidery design, too.
This pattern is still available! Just join my
MAS Patterns Group on facebook!
I enjoy the challenge of modifying a pattern and I thought this yoke would be adorable with romper bottoms.
